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The 2011 Festival Season

2011-10-08T11:40:00.000-07:00

29th May: The Pie & Pint Music Festival

This was a new one for me. Serena had spotted it somewhere and I was expecting her to be there but she wasn't. It was not quite what I expected, there being very little beer left, not an awful lot of pies (though they were good) and limited music. When I got there there were probably more dogs than people (even though dogs weren't allowed). There were a few 'local' bands but one that did stand out was Silent Republic who had hints of Led Zeppelin, Pearl Jam and others. No CD to buy unfortunately though they have a My Space page. I only stayed a few hours and headed into Cheltenham to see what their pubs were like. Not very good as it turned out. The Royal Union on Hatherley St was good: the rest didn't do much for me. I did get an excellent pizza in Pizza Express though. Different I guess but I doubt I'll bother next year.

The Pie & Pint Music Festival

Silent Republic - very good!

Photo Map. Pie & Pint bottom, Cheltenham pubs top

16 July Marlborough Jazz Festival

As usual, Helen & Mark came down and we met Tony for the bus to Marlborough. Our first port of call was the Crown for Ray Harris Fusion Experience. They were great as usual and I went into a bit of a trance and dreamed of being a fighter pilot. I do this a lot these days... Soul Sanctuary Gospel Choir in the Church were good. We only saw one African band this year and the music overall wasn't the best but it is always a great day wandering the streets and attractive pubs of Marlborough. I'll be back next year.

Ray Harris with his Fusion Experience at Marlborough

Mark, Me, Helen

Marlborough Jazz Photo Map

29-31 July WOMAD

WOMAD is my second favourite event of any year, after my annual Grand Tour. Somehow I messed it up this year though. Usually I spend three days wandering round with a huge grin on my face as I'm having so much fun. I struggled to get there this year though. I had trouble with my legs, probably trouble with too many painkillers and almost certainly trouble due to too much cider. I also made some disappointing music choices and missed some great stuff (there is too much to see to see everything - you have to make a choice). I did see some fabulous stuff though, as evidenced buy the CDs I picked up there and the others that I got from Amazon after. These were:

The amazing Bomba Estereo - a trance band from Columbia - I only caught the last song or two but this was probably the gig of the festival. You don't quite get the atmosphere on the CD (Blow Up) but its still great.

Bomba Estereo!!!

Vieux Farka Toure (I'm listening to it as I write this) is African jangly guitar and soufull singing at its best and was fabulous. The CD I got is Fondo which is equally fabulous.

Vieux Farka Toure

El Tambura are good time party people from Egypt and put on a great set. They are quite an old bunch and wear some interesting gear but the smiles on their faces say it all. The CD Friends of Bamboute doesn't quite capture it but is worth having all the same.

El Tanbura

Ballake Sissoko & Vincent Segal played Kora (like a huge gourd with a guitar neck) and cello respectively and played a beautiful set. The album Chamber Music is also beautiful.

Ballake Sissoko & Vincent Segal

Then there was Rodrigo y Gabriella - a guitar duo from Mexico who do things you wouldn't believe were possible on acoustic guitars. The Siam tent was packed to the gills and we were at the back but this was a stunning set. Pick up their self titled album from 2006 (Its got an crocodile's eye as its cover) and prepare to be amazed. Make sure you get the bonus DVD with it which has their backstory, some songs and an amazing tutorial on how they make their sound.

The astonishing Rodrigo y Gabriela

AfroCubism are exactly what their name suggests (ish) - Cuban music a la Buena Vista Social Club with an African tinge. A great gig and a great (self titled) CD too.

Africa meets Cuba

Samuel Yirga is a young pianist from Ethiopia who played mellow, proper jazz with his band. I particularly loved the sound of the 6 string bass. Great EP called Hagere.

Samuel Yirga

The band I came to see were Baaba Maal and he was, as always, fabulous with his haunting voice. I have some of his CDs already and must get more.

You have to dance like this when Baaba Maal is playing

Ayarkhaan are a spectacular trio from the Sakha Republic in the Arctic Circle. These women throat sing and play oversized jews harp things. They make a sound that has to be heard to believed. Not something I want to have on CD probably but it was a brilliant gig. It was on the Radio 3 stage. If you are prepared to listen you will always hear something that is worth hearing on this stage and you will be left the better for it. This is why I love WOMAD so much.

Ayarkhaan

The last band we heard were Blitz the Ambassador who were a sort of Blues Brothers meets rap and were great fun

Blitz the Ambassador

I also picked up the Songlines CD of Music Awards 2011 which is always great and has songs from some of the people I saw this and last year. Fabulous value at £5. Plus I took out a 4 month trial of Songlines magazine which comes with one or two compilation CDs each months. Always great.

All this plus excellent company from Serena, Tony, Carla and Janet, some great food and some great beer (especially from the the Bristol Beer Factory) and cider, plus I got my face painted. Twice. Hmm. Not so bad after all it seems. Excellent :)

WOMAD Photo map. You can see where the fun was to be had.

11 August: Cropredy Fringe

Serena joined Tony and I for our annual day trip to the Cropredy Fringe. We haven't been to the festival-proper for a few years now - WOMAD and Beautiful Days have spoiled us I guess - A single stage festival with a somewhat eclectic line up just doesn't have the draw any more. Its a pleasant train ride to Banbury where we headed to the excellent Reindeer Inn for a pint before getting the bus to Cropredy where we met up with the usual gang at the Braesnose.

Tony and I particularly wanted to see Rachel Gittus at the Red Lion so we went to check the timings (having missed her a couple of years previously). Not even the sound man knew when she was coming on so we resolved to come back at the previously published time of 2pm. When we got there she had almost finished her set. Doh. We did meet up with Dave and Molly from last year though :)

The rest of the afternoon was the usual chilling and wandering round the stalls, enjoying the beer while sitting on the grass at the Cricket club and so forth. We did see one more band at the Brasenose: Sam Kelly's Station House by the looks of things. We finished the afternoon chilling in the graveyard with a pint (its OK - everyone it here) before getting the bus back to Banbury and a pint in the Bell in before getting the train.

We interrupted our journey at Oxford for a quick walk up the canal path to the marvellous Old Bookbinders in Jericho and then home. A great day out as always.

It does tend to rain at Cropredy (actually this is Banbury)

Rachel Gittus

At the cricket ground. Mmm, Old Hookey

Sam Kelley's Station House

Chilling in the graveyard

Pondering in the Old Bookbinders...

...Cracked it!

19-21 August Beautiful Days

Beautiful Days is almost an extension of WOMAD for me. They have a lot of similarities - both three days, we camp at both, great music, beer and food. However, they are also quite different. WOMAD is all about exotic new music for me. The site is really nice (especially the arboretum) and there are all manner of interesting stalls to look round. Its is quite 'middle class' and there are lots of charity/campaigning booths. Its really about the music though. BD is more about the experience. It certainly has great music, most of which tends to be new to me but it is mostly British. The site is just beautiful and the hill separates the spaces out so it seems bigger than it is. We tend to sit and chill at BD and are less worried about seeing all the music (though we do see a lot).

I'd always struggled to compare the sizes of the two. I was sure that BD was smaller but this year I was struck by how much smaller it actually is. They both have a big red music tent - WOMAD's is 3 times the size. They both have an open air stage - WOMAD's is twice as big. WOMAD seems to have a capacity of 22000. BDs is variously reported as between 12000-14000.

Anyway, the trouble I had getting in 'the zone' at WOMAD as thankfully absent at BD. I spent virtually the whole time with a big grin on my face, hugely enjoyed the site, saw some great bands, had spectacular pizza (amongst other things) and wonderful Otter Beer. Highlights:

Day 1 was mainly orientation , enjoying the site and chilling (which we needed after an unfortunate episode with a missing entry ticket!).

The girls found this alarming

Day 2 - Punk band The Mob take the Saturday early afternoon slot which always seems to have proper old stye punk on, and is always great. They were no exception and sounded a bit like Hawkwind. The Blockheads were excellent, putting on a great show as always. Adrian Edmonson & the Bad Shepherds were very good - which I wasn't expecting. The musical highlight of whole festival were Afro Celt who may well be my favourite live band ever. They were brilliant at WOMAD last year seen from a bit of a distance in the Siam. This year, in little BD, I was able to get within a few rows of the front at the open air stage. There was a particularly memorable drum battle between the Indian and African drummers and I loved the contrast of their styles. The African style was all smiles and big movements and dancing. The Indian was typical (humorous) macho big poses. Worked brilliantly together. With the flute holding it all together. If there is a better live group I haven't seen it.

The marvellous Bimble Inn

The Mob

The Young Coppers. Mmm, folky.

These guys make the worlds best pizza, IMHO

A couple of Blockheads

Dave Brock being interviewed (it was his 70th birthday)

Ade Edmondson. A bad shepherd.

The scary guy with the piano bicycle

The girls in big knickers

Afro celt. Goddamit they are tremendous.

Shiny

Day 3 starts as always with The Fabulous Good Time Party Boys who are always a riot. Sort of Sean of the Dead meets Rocky Horror. The find of the festival though are a young band, Wolf People who are again in the excellent early afternoon open air stage slot. They sound to me like a reworking of classic Quicksilver Messenger Service and that is compliment indeed. Brilliant. I got right to the very front for them. They had no CDs for sale but I picked up one when I got home. Its excellent.

System 7 are Steve Hillage and Miquette Giraudy and were doing a 90min electronic set at the Little Big Top on the hill. It wasn't too busy and I went right down the front. Steve still had the strange accountant haircut he had with Gong a year or so back, was wearing a fashion T shirt that didn't suit him and looked awkward fiddling with the dials, checking his Macbook Pro and playing riffs on his headless Steinberger. But he (they) were great. He, after all, was in there really early with the electronic trance stuff and is still a renowned producer. One punter told me that I'd just missed a couple of members of Hawkwind who had been there.

A Fabulous Good Time Party Girl...

...and some of the Good Time boys

A couple of Wolf People

Chilling at the Over the Top bar

Chilling on Bimble hill

Bimble Inn from an unusual angle

A nice tree

System 7 giving it some

Go Steve!

BD always finishes with fireworks :)

Commiserating the end of the festival with (fabulous) hot chocolate at the pizza place

All this interspersed with chatting and eating and drinking and wandering made for a most excellent festival - the festival of the year for me this year. And that's that until next year. It can't come round again too soon (BD Tickets are already on sale).

We always camp near this tree

BD Photo Map. The campsite is bottom left, Big Top upper mid left, main stage middle, Bimble Inn Bottom right

Same time next year then :)

Holiday 2011 Summary: So what was that about?

2011-09-25T05:47:00.000-07:00

So there we are: 23 days, 13 towns, 13 hotels, about 14,500ml (2500ml on land), three states and 2088 pictures. This was my most ambitious solo holiday (second only to the Bangkok/NZ/Sydney one with Serena in 2009) and almost certainly my most expensive ever (mainly due to the car). But was it any good I hear you say?

Well read the bloody blog I might answer. But no, I'll condense and summarise it here for you, the One Blog, the blog to rule them all, if you will.

The holiday, in my normal style was the result of a huge amount of planning. I deliberately didn't book every hotel in case I wanted to change plans mid way. Actually, because it was such a long, one way, road trip, I didn't have much flexibility and didn't change very much. However, before I went I had at least one and usually more than one hotel researched so as to save the interminable time I spent every evening last year in planning. It didn't actually work - I still spent hours, though I guess it would have been much worse had I not planned. And this is what an Andy's holiday plan looks like, seeing as you asked (the mindmap was made on the wonderful Mindnode):

This planning paid off. As far as I can remember, everything I planned or booked beforehand was about as good as it could be and the only thing I neglected to bring was my Tom Tom charger, and that was on the plan. Cost about £15 to replace. So, to horse...

Off to LA. The unexpected seat upgrade to extra legroom plus no one next to me was excellent and the flight went well.

Over Greenland

Hollywood Blvd was much as I expected - a bit of a dump really - but no more so than say Leicester Square. I spent most of the first visit on tour busses. It was great to see the Hollywood sign up close(ish), interesting to see the hideous mansions of the rich and famous, had a good trip to Santa Monica beach, and an odd one to Venice beach. However, what I really remember from first visit was chatting to the tour guide and finding out out what its like to be a young, skint Latino trying to make your way in big time LA (they all seem to love it there). If I had more time I would have liked to spend time and eat around Melrose Av, which looked quirky, bohemian and not trashy. I'd also visit the museums/galleries in that area - the LA County Art Gallery, maybe the Tar Pits And maybe even the Universal studios tour which is meant to be brilliant but at $77 you need to send the day there (or $79 for an annual pass!). My hotel was really good if expensive. I don't regret going to Hollywood at all. It needed to be seen once, but its done now.

LA. It had to be done

Seattle was next via my very exciting 1st class flight. Maybe all flights will one day be like 1st class where the trip is physically comfortable and the staff really are happy to server you. The weather was lovely when I got there and it seemed a chilled and fun place. I had thought that it always rained in Seattle but this is apparently a common misconception: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Seattle . Wikipedia also tells us that its a city of 600,000 built on 7 hills. Sounds like Sheffield :) I was only there for 2 full days and two half days and I spent a day searching for a car. However, the place really attracted me. I had a wonderful, if expensive, hotel in a lovely neighbourhood close to the brilliant space needle and EMP museum. I had some really excellent meals there too. The part of the city I visited isn't particularly attractive but then I never went further than walking distance. I would loved to have stayed longer and got on some ferries around the many islands and even gone as far as Vancouver (another lovely place). So would I live there? Heck yes. Avoiding the sometimes unfriendliness and congestion of the bigger cities like Chicago, having good climate, a wonderful setting, brilliant culture (see the Wiki link) and being in the fabulous Washington State, this might just be my new favourite place in the US (OK apart from San Francisco).

Seattle's Space Needle

Fish in the fish market

Off then to Port Angeles on the North Washington Coast, via pretty little Port Townsend. Port Angeles only has 20 000 people according to Wikipedia. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Port_Angeles It felt a lot bigger than that (though I didn't see much of it). I had a very nice hotel which, although basically on a main road, had an excellent view of Hurricane Ridge from my room (I paid extra for this). I had an excellent meal in Cafe Gardens restaurant but Port Angeles is all about the views. The next day, with my brilliant drive up Hurricane Ridge (I was lucky it was open as this is the beginning of the season and the snow has only recently receded) made the place a must stop destination. I can smell the snow and the mountains as I write this. I was then very pleased with the town itself with its harbour, partly circled by a huge (c 3ml) spit of land stretching out in a curve to protect the town. The day (now about 4pm) then continued with a drive along the northern coastal area, past Lake Crescent. Today was one of THE drives of the holiday, the area recalling the Fjordlands of New Zealand. When I hit the West coast area the mist came down. This Pacific bounded area is actually rainforest which doesn't make for the best views. The North Coast of Washington Stare in the Olympic National park, though, is a wonder.

From Hurricane Ridge above Port Angeles WA

Crescent Lake WA

The Camero at Crescent Lake

The day ended in Ocean Shores. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocean_Shores,_Washington This peculiar, down at heal, apparently planned, resort didn't appear to offer very much. Its true that my hotel was friendly and pretty good value, with a view of the sea, but this sleepy (OK its out of season) place provided me with a very poor meal and no entertainment. It wasn't until the next day, preparing to leave that I found out that I could drive on the beach and a pleasurable hour was spent poodleing up and down on the sand in my Camero. This, coupled with the fact that it was a such an odd out of the way place meant that I actually think about it quite a bit. Its half a World away.

Camero on the beach

The next day I headed into Oregon and the little town of Garibaldi. It was a great drive here, past the beautiful and interesting Cape Disappointment and over the first of the metal framed bridges that seem to be a signature of Oregon. I was disappointed to miss Cannon Beach and its weird rock outcrops but I did at least get a view from a parking spot.

Garibaldi is a great little place of under 1000 people (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Garibaldi,_Oregon). It provided me with a swanky hotel which was easily the best value of the holiday, a nice meal and drinks in the Garibaldi Pub & Eatery, new Facebook friend Janet and a very pleasant short stay in a beautiful setting. I was very pleased at my late change from Tillamook to Garibaldi.

Garibaldi's harbour

The next day I visited the Tillamook Air Museum which was great fun. I really needed more of these excursions on this trip but time was against me. Lincoln City provided photo stop at its attractive beach but for the rest of the drive it was overcast and the attractive coast was not seen at its best. However, the final section, through Dune Country was great and a return was planned.

Tillamook Air Museum

More of Oregon's coastline. This near Florence.

So to Coos Bay http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coos_Bay,_Oregon and the first disappointing hotel of the holiday, the quite expensive Best Western. It was a big room but dark and badly laid out but I wasn't there long. This logging town of 16,000 people (I'm surprised how small all these places are) provided me with a very nice German meal and actually looked nice enough. However, the main attraction was the Dune country. I spent a brief but enjoyable time there in the sun and would happily have spent longer. Much of the dune area does seem to be given over to dune buggy tracks though so it probably isn't very peaceful.

One of Oregon's many bridges. Just outside Coos Bay.

Dune Country

More coastline. Near Gold Beach OR

Then on to Eureka. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eureka,_California The first part of the drive is through lovely woods then at Port Orford I am back to beautiful coastline and lots of stops for views. And then I'm in California. This was another fabulous drive (except for the bit where I nearly ran out of petrol). Eureka was another change from my original plan (Acarta) and another win. My quirky, super bargain hotel (cheapest of the holiday) was a joy, as was its attentive owner and this is a very pretty historic town that provided me with a very nice meal and a bit of a wander around.

They like their murals in Eureka

Next the journey to Fort Bragg which includes the Avenue of the Giants. This is a tremendous drive and a fabulous place and I also stop at Founders Grove for a walk. Also the drive-through tree. Then continuing through twisty wooded roads this becomes the best drive of the holiday. Brilliant.

Lunch stop in the Avenue of the Giants...

...which was one of the enduring memories of the holiday

Founders Grove

At the Leggett Drive-thru tree. Aren't I tiny!

Fort Bragg is a little place of about 8000 people. My Super 8 motel on the main road was good value and close to the little harbour at Noyo Bay which provided me with an enjoyable meal at Carine's. I didn't see much else of the town but it seemed nice.

Part of the little harbour at Fort Bragg

The next day was the drive to Petaluma, my only stop away from the coast on the whole holiday. I only chose this place because I had lots to do in the San Francisco area and needed an overnight. I didn't want to stop in SF itself as I've done this loads of times. The drive itself was lovely again and my two stop offs were Drakes Bay and Point Reyes lighthouse which I'd been to with Sarah in 1999. The peninsula was shrouded in mist giving it an otherworldly look but the rest of the time the weather was lovely. Apart from the car door incident this was a great trip.

Point Reyes lighthouse

Scary red stuff on the rocks

Petaluma and especially my hotel, the Metro, were the unexpected delights of the holiday. The hotel has to be seen to be believed: boutique style with a huge Parisian theme. Utterly brilliant. Petaluma was also a lovely place. Bigger at 57000 people but with an attractive town centre where I had a great Mexican meal and some fine Langunitas beer (brewed in the town). Its certainly a place that would be nice to go back to if I was even vaguely in the area. Probably too sleepy to live in though, I'm guessing.

Now that's a proper basin. In the Metro Hotel.

The back of the hotel. My room is the corner one. The Airstream Caravans are rooms too. I was tempted but my room was the right choice.

The next day was to be a busy one: Starting with a lovely drive up to Mt Tamalpais, a walk round the East summit looking for a way up, finally finding that and exhausting myself with the climb. Brilliant views of San Francisco Bay though (but my photos are inexplicably and almost universally rubbish - thank god for Photoshop). Its super hot in-land and I had my shorts on at last. Then to see the sights of San Francisco starting with a quick stop at Sausolito, then Horseshoe Bay for some views of the city before heading in and around, down Lombard St, through the City Centre and over the Bay Bridge to Treasure Island: a weird place. Back to the city and Twin Peaks and a quick drive up Haight and through the Golden Gate Park and take some pictures over the ocean in the twilight. I was running late now and the drive down the coast road from Half Moon Bay to Santa Cruz ended up being in the dark. My only night drive. I got to my hotel at 23:20 and have 7Eleven snacks and vodka for my evening meal. From pretty Petaluma to the beautiful Mt Tam to my favourite city, this was my most ambitious day of the holiday and quite possibly the best.

The Golden Gate Bridge is dead centre. The Pacific on the right is swathed in cloud. The Bay to the left is clear. Its often like this.

You want hat hair, you got hat hair.

The most wonderful...

...And from Horseshoe Bay

Back 'Home'

The Pacific prepares for bed...

Journey's end (nearly)

I feel happy looking at this day's photos this evening, but also sad. I am so very familiar with so much of what I could see from Mt Tam and my trip through the city. I miss it very much and want to be there. I don't think there is anywhere else I can say that about.

The main job the next day was to revisit Scotts Creek beach, where we went in 2003, and very nice it was too. As I did in Drakes Bay, I re-took a photo from my prior visit. Drakes bay hadn't changed but Scotts Creek was much more lush than it was at the height of a hot dry summer in 2003. Then to look at Santa Cruz pop 60 000 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Santa_Cruz,_California. Its a nice place with a buzz. Its promenade and fun fair are a tourist draw and a good example of such things. I was very pleased to find the bar that we visited in 2003, mainly by accident as I didn't know where it was (though had a reasonable stab at it). Quite a nice meal and back to my hotel. The hotel was a bit of a disappointment after the wonderful Petaluma. It was clean but a little down at heel and not a great place to chill. Still, I had fun in Santa Cruz and it was nice to have a 'day off', though it turned out to be busier than I had expected. As last time it was fiercely hot and the sun fearsomely bright.

Scott Creek Beach

The fair at Santa Cruz Boardwalk

The next day, the drive through the Big Sur to San Luis Obispo was to be the drive of the holiday. It turned out to be the disappointment of the holiday. The scenery was OK in the overcast skies and light mist but nothing more. To rub salt into the wound, Hearst castle looked fascinating but, because I'd given myself plenty of time for the drive, I didn't have time to visit that.

Along the Big Sur

Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park

Things don't really improve when I get to San Luis Obispo as I had thought I'd got a reasonably swanky hotel but it turned out if anything to be worse than in Santa Cruz. Another Motel style one, all the rooms were on the ground floor overlooking the car park so there was no privacy without the curtains closed (which I hate). The popular farmers market was OK as was the Chinese buffet meal but I wasn't to be cheered up. It was not until I got back, sat on the hotel porch in a rocking chair with my laptop and a vodka, enjoying the cool evening, that things improved and the day ended, finally, contented. I never got to see any more of San Luis. Its bigger than I had expected at 45 000. It was really just somewhere to stay and seems nice enough. It certainly has a nice setting. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/San_Luis_Obispo,_California . Jon Anderson from Yes used to live here apparently!

Car and Room at the Peach Tree Hotel

This turns out to be Molino Creek. Scott Creek is about 50m up the beach

The next day was the trip to LA but I had a couple of stops planed, the first of which turned out to be a holiday highlight. I was on the wrong road and nearly missed the Mission la Purisma http://www.lapurisimamission.org/. A detour through some lovely hilly farmland took me to this state park with its beautiful restored Mission which was all open and available to view. I spent a pleasant hour or so here and even get shown up the bell tower and rang the bell. Then a great drive through beautiful hills to Santa Barbara. Its cloudy here but I get good views from the Courthouse building. I can't find its Mission though which is meant to be beautiful.

Inside Mission la Purisma

Santa Barbara Courthouse

My hotel in downtown LA is Jerry's and is the most downmarket of the holiday though with a very accommodating owner. Its another downstairs one so dark. It has some quirkiness though (and a very noisy fridge) but I'm not really happy there. There was little at affordable prices in Downtown LA so this was probably was my best bet. Anyway, a quite nice meal then back to finish off a great day with my normal holiday admin. The next day I have lots planned. I try and fail to find Zappa's house but see a bit of Laurel Canyon. Then to the Griffiths Observatory which is a beautiful building in a beautiful setting though the exhibits are not for me. Finally to the Getty Centre on a hill out of town. Getting there involves the unpleasant LA Freeways and I have a couple of nearish misses from people who just change lanes at a whim and without looking. Anyway, the Getty Centre is a fabulous oasis of opulence. It also has some great art. This is the one place in LA I would really like to come back to.

Griffith's Observatory

At the Getty Centre

The next day was to my final stop, San Diego. After a shaky start to the day I find the Mission in San Juan Capistrano which is another delight. More touristy than Mission la Purisma but still fascinating and beautiful.

In Mission San Juan Capistrano

Then to the Bristol Hotel. I was determined to stay in somewhere nice for my final city and I turned out to have done a brilliant job in choosing this hotel which was easily the best of the holiday. Including parking it was also the most expensive but easily worth it. A huge, modern super swanky room in a good location. I get my first great steak of the holiday in a little Italian restaurant and this day turns out extremely well in the end.

The entertainment for the next day was the Zoo, said to be one of the worlds best. I hadn't properly been to a zoo in many years and I did find it somewhat sad in places though it was in a beautiful setting. I was there 5 hours and got round most of it. The giraffes were the best bit, followed by the cheetah with its husky dog companion. A great Afghan meal ended the days entertainment

My last full days sightseeing was to the other top San Diego attraction (according to Trip Advisor which had been my constant companion and with which I had selected all my hotels and most of my restaurants). This was absolutely brilliant. Another 5h sightseeing trip during which I got round pretty much the whole ship. Being a sailor (indeed any serviceman) is such an alien life to me and I felt privileged to have got at least a flavour of what it is they do. I liked san Diego a lot. Almost as much as Seattle.

USS Midway

So my last day - well two really. I nice if brief drive to Coronado on the other side of the bay then I hit the Freeways for the trip back to LA. I couldn't find the Mission I was looking for but my main priority was to secure good seats on the plane and this I did. The flight went reasonably well and I even slept. I didn't feel too bad on the bus and the whole journey was reasonably successful. It also left me with that 'wow, I got up 6000ml away' feeling. Lucy was beside herself with delight at my return (she doesn't sulk luckily) and I was as pleased to see her.

Coming Home

Cloudy England

So there we go then. The highlights: Washington State, The Petaluma/Mt Tamalpais/San Francisco day, The Missions and the USS Midway. The lowlight - the Big Sur unfortunately. The best hotels: The Bristol in San Diego for its swankiness and the Metro in Petaluma for its madness.

So was it all worth it. Well yes. There was rather too much 'on the move' and not enough 'staying put' but I knew that would be the case. I never found driving a chore or hard work as I love it but you need to stop and see stuff and that can be difficult when you have a schedule to meet. But the point of it was to do the whole West Coast and that's what I did.

It was all about the contrast really. From the stunning grandeur of Washington State's Olympic National Park, to the misty beauty of Oregon's coastline, a state that seems so very far away. From the stunning redwoods and beautiful light of Northern California, to San Francisco, my favourite City, to the madness that is LA and the gorgeous Missions and Spanishness of Southern California. Finally, San Diego a large and thriving city that seems to have a more local scale and does have a great climate. It wouldn't have been worth not experiencing all that contrast. So yes. Hard work but it was worth it.

2413 miles through three States

This great little book was quite literally my tour guide, and my constant companion on the trip

So to next year. More of the same? Driving: yes probably as that works well for a solo visitor, but I think a circular tour works better (and cheaper). Last year I stopped at most places for more than one night and that should be my aim as 'being places' is generally better than 'passing places'. This year I was originally intending to do Nova Scotia and may well pick that up again for next year. There is also still the Northern Lights trip to go on this winter. Probably a cruise. Or maybe not. I still haven't decided.

Don't forget that this is just the short holiday summary! Full details plus loads of photos are earlier in this blog and on my Wordpress blog. Keep watching

Update: Northern Light Cruise booked for February 2012. Very excited! http://hurtigruten.co.uk/Northern-Lights/Northern-Lights-Cruises/Adventure-Breaks/Arctic-Wonders/

Holiday 2011 Day 22/23: Back to LA and flying home

2011-08-30T12:55:00.000-07:00

So this is the last day. Priority one is getting to LA and the airport. However, I'm going to drive round the some of the hige natural harbour that San Diego is built round then hope to get to one of the Missions on the way. I go to a sandwich shop (Grab & Go Subs) directly over the road which seems to be a great place and get a dry salami sub and large coffee. Drink my coffee in the room.

I'm ready to leave at 12. It takes quite a while to retrieve my car from the valet and I get going at 12:30 after chatting to a local guy who's wife has just become a native. They had to come into town for a sort of graduation ceremony where she took the oath.

The valet tells me where a gas station is which is good then I head off over the big bridge to Coronado. My selected Tom Tom destination doesn't have parking so I plan a route round the harbour. I find a small venue by the beach. It's parking meters but they are very cheap. I get a cheesecake ice-cream in a chocolate wafer. The ice cram is nice though like vanilla. I don't eat much of the wafer which is far too sweet. Anyway, sit by the beach and take a few photos.

Mmmm, sugar rush

The Beach at Coronado

San Diego from Coronado

The USS Midway from Coronado

The other one - the USS Carl Vinson (no.70)

Then off. The road has a few nice vistas of the coast but there are no stopping points. As I'm going to be on the freeway, I have the roof up so I can isten to music. I'd been planning to stop at the Santa Barbara mission but I realise that this is actually north of LA. The one 20 ml east of the freeway might be a bit far so I select another one at San Luis Reyes. When I get to the town the are no signs for or of it. So onwards - no more time to stop. I'm off colour today - probably a mixture of too much to drink last night and pre journey nerves. Also I'm not too keen on the LA freeways. Its been quite a nice drive up to now but then the clouds come in and stay like this until I get to LA.

As I didn't stop at a Mission I have loads of time but as I get to Long Beach area I hit a traffic jam. This lasts for several miles and I lose about 45 mins so I'm no longer early. It turns out to be a car on its side in the cars-share lane. As usual, as soon as I'm past this things speed up. Unfortunately, as I get to LA central the traffic jams come again. Its not stationary, a mixture of stopped and 30mph but is eating into my time again. When this eases, a few miles from the airport I put my foot down. The next challenge is petrol. Close to the airport I see a gas station and pull in. As usual, I have to pre-pay and have to quote an amount. $30 doesn't fill it so try with another $10. This takes up valuable time. I get to car drop off. A guy checks it and gives me my receipt ($2470). I have a bit of a chat with him as I unload. He's impressed with my journey. I then can't find my Tom Tom screen dock and end up unpacking loads of stuff. I'd put it on the car while chatting.

Some journey stats from the car

The shuttle bus goes immediately and I'm soon at the terminal. I ask and am told to go to check in to try to upgrade. The helpful lady finds me an extra legroom window seat (which I suspect is over the wing - it is). So that's basically all the stress done :) I need to repack my travelling stuff in the case so do this then pay my upgrade, leave my case and proceed past security. I get a full pat down (their scanner is broken) but the guy is polite and friendly.

Once inside I eat the rest of my nice sub from this morning and find the one and only bar, LA Roadhouse Route 66. I sit at the bar and have a 'pint' of Blue Moon Belgian White which is OK, I have about 1:30h to wait. Why is there no wireless available at LAX? Then I have a Bud Light just to be different - this is completely tasteless. Like fizzy water, which at $9 for a 16oz pint is a bit rich really. Anyway, at 8:30pm, my check in time, I pay my $20 bill and head across to the gate. Nothing much is happening and boarding doesn't start until nearly 9. I've decided to invoke the bad legs card so join the old crumblies and kids queue and get in early. My seat is indeed over the wing so there won't be much view. I take down the seat numbers of the 'purple seats' for future reference: they are rows 33-36 right side only. I have 35K. These are more forward than on the way up (when I had 54K) so I guess you can't predict where the good seats are going to be. Its an Airbus A340-600.

LAX. Waiting to leave.

I end up with someone beside me unfortunately but this is not a big surprise as the plane is full. We take off as soon as everyone has boarded but this is maybe 21:40 (scheduled was 21:15). I'm really tired now (stressy day, not much to eat, 2 pints) and I could do with a sleep. Watch a couple of episodes of Family Guy and am just closing my eyes when they bring the drinks and food round. I have a white wine and beef with potatoes and veg which, like the meal on the way up, tastes artificial. Then coffee. I'm keen for them to take the stuff away so I can have a sleep. They eventually collect the stuff and they turn the cabin lights off (its midnight) so I attempt to sleep...

Day 23. Still flying

...I was by now getting badly restless legs and I take paracetamol (I was very careful to make sure this was in every bag and pocket) plus take my shoes off which is a great help to comfort - note to self - do this always. Surprisingly and pleasingly I get real sleep interspersed with dozing between now and when they turn the lights back on at 6am. I'd peered out the window once or twice but it was far too bright, my contacts were blurry and the wing was in the way. On one wake up we'd recently passed labrador which would have been good to see. The bloke next to me swaps with his young son who is a bit fidgety but not a problem. They bring round a breakfast - a salty hot ham and cheese roll and juice which don't go down that well. Anyway, watch a bit more comedy. We are due to land at 3:55pm local (7:55am LA). We picked up a bit of time due to slightly bumpy jet stream so may have made this or nearly this.

Nearly home

There are hundreds of people at border control, though they are moving well, and its probably 45 mins here feeling exhausted, hot and generally crap. The good news is that at least my case is already there (I'd started to worry about the bus) so straight off to the bus station. There is a Bristol bus there and I ask but it doesn't stop at Swindon so to Cafe Nero and get a tea and sit at a table outside in the bas station hall and watch all the excited tourists waiting for people or to start their UK adventure. Its raining outside. The first rain I've seen since I left. The tea really perks me up so all is good.

My bus is there about 5:30 (5:45 scheduled leaving) so board. They haven't reserved my seat but actually a regular one is better than the front one. As we wait for a connecting bus I notice a girl who'd I'd seen at the terminal at LAX. Funny to think last time I saw her was 6000ml and 12hrs away. This time/distance stuff always weirds me out.

Green and cloudy England

The coach journey is fine with Scott Mills podcasts and finally more Traffic (ie the band).

I get to Swindon about on time - 7:10 and there is a taxi at the bus station which is handy. Home shortly after. Serena has kindly picked up Lucy who is incredibly pleased to see me. I have a sit down with her and she moults all over me. I go for a brief snooze - she comes up on the bed then have a shower and start unpacking. Lucy seems a bit podgy and picking her up and standing on the scales (the only way to keep her still) puts us together at 81Kg. Well someone has put on weight haven't they! When I put her down and the scales only drop by 4Kg I'm forced to mumble my apologies. OK, I'm a post holiday far arse,

Cheese and wine seems appealing but I'm keen to see people so text Tony who's about to head to the Savoy. I get there about 9:45. Atti is also there. I get a chicken bhoona and a quite nice pint. The curry is pretty crap. Have 2 pints and a G&T and we leave about 11:20. I was intending to have some wine but I'm tired and thirsty and feeling quite drunk so have a tea. I want to download my geolog to see if its worked, which it has, but this is all I can manage and bed 12:45.

I woke up in San Diego, I went to bed in Swindon . How weird is that. Glad to be home though.

Coming soon, the final chapter: So was it all worth it then?

We took a more direct looking route across the Atlantic this time, though the geologger puts it about the same distance

Holiday 2011 Day 21: USS Midway

2011-08-22T16:38:00.000-07:00

I got a longer sleep tonight - up at 9:30. Have juice and coffee and check out today's fun - USS Midland - an aircraft carrier. Its about 0.7ml away on the waterfront so I walk getting there before 12. Its self guided with an extremely good audio tour. $18 all in.

Starting on the hanger deck which is actually the least good bit. It has a number of historical aircraft and also flight simulators, a shop, the cafe etc. It would have been better had they left it 'original' but I guess they need to make their money. There is a diversion to the crewmen's quarters - what a hell hole - how can people live so confined! - and airwing area which are interesting. I leave going down to the lower floors and get a turkey croissant (they don't just put jam on croissants in the US) and a coffee - nice actually.

Just a coissant

The carrier in the background is the one they bought Bin Laden's body back on.

Then down to the engine room. You can't see that much but there is an interesting 'docent' there ( a veteran who's volunteering in the museum) who tells me some good stuff.

This is where it is really steered

Then to the flight deck. Not surprisingly this is where it all happens. There are loads of planes there - more contemporary than below - plus helicopters. Each has an audio description and some have comments from people who served at the time. Towards the bow there is a veteran of the catapults talking about this - its fascinating. The thing is held there on full power buy a metal pin around 1cm thick. Take off occurs when the combined force of the catapult and jet engines are strong enough to break the pin and off it goes. Each plane type has its own pin. Brilliant talk.

This is not a city freeway, its an aircraft carrier!

I see the rest of the displays at the front then queue up for the tour of the bridge. Not many in front luckily. Lots of very steep steps but this is an interesting guided tour.

Then the rest of the flight deck displays including the Admirals area and mission command.

Being an Admiral rules

The machine that goes Ping

Mmmm, knobs

Flight deck persons are colour coded by function

Bless their multiculturalism :)

There is another guy talking about landing. He was a pilot with 80 landings who served on exchange with the Royal Navy, mainly in Scotland. As they land, the pilots go to full thrust so if they miss the catapault they have a fighting chance of taking off again. I ask at what point they power down - its when they come to a complete stop: the catching line stops and holds fighter jets at full power! He said that sometimes the pilots are so fired up that they ground crew have to harrass them to power down - thet are sitting there stationary at full power. Landing in the day on good seas is generally successful but at night or heavy seas apparently misses are quite common. They have pilots in observation bays watching each landing and warning th epilot of they're not quite right. Apparently sometimes pilots spend a whole tour doing thsi. That must suck. Another brilliant insight.

The grabby bit of the catapult

Then down to the lower floors. The messes (officers and crew), sick bay, Petty Officers mess (they have their own mess, better even than the officers mess, own pay scales and are considered to be the bedrock of the navy). Its getting towards 5 now (closing) and its quiet down here and peaceful at last (noisy children everywhere) though I'm sure the ship would never have been quiet. But at least I can chill. I finally finish the tour pretty much dead on 5. Brilliant. I feel quite privileged getting an insight as to how a city at sea like this works.

The Petty Officer's mess. The food here is better than any other mess and even the captain has to ask permission to come in.

I've sort of walked through the pain now but hobble back, finding a 7Eleven to get tonight's wine.

Lie down for a bit with a coffee, then off about 7 to Basics Pizza on 10th.

Its a bit of a long way and is a sort of warehouse type place very well regarded on TripAdvisor. You design your own pizzas. I get an IPA of some sort (shame I couldn't remember what it was as it was really nice) and the rather gorgeous waitress took my order. I get a 'red pie' (sort of traditional tomato based) with pepperoni and olives plus (at waitresses suggestion) roasted eggplant. I got the small but it was huge - about 12-15" and really nice. Especially the eggplant.

$37 000 to you. Flux capacitor extra.

I walk back somewhat bloated and tired (I left two slices which I have with me) and very pleased when I finally get home. Once I finally catch by breath my $14 Piniot Grigio goes down really well. Get a plan for tomorrow (like last year, a late flight is always going to make doing stuff difficult as I'll be stressing about getting there: but I have a plan).

This was one of the stand out days of the holiday. Excellent :) I think I took more photos today than on any other day. You can see the rest here: https://picasaweb.google.com/109601532802723861644/Holiday2011_06_21SanDiegoUSSMidway?authuser=0&feat=directlink

Holiday 2011 Day 20: San Diego Zoo

2011-08-12T16:17:00.000-07:00

I sleep quite well in my great big room. I have some juice and a coffee and make plans for the zoo. I buy my day pass for the zoo at the hotel for $38 - a $2 discount. Ready to go, I can't find the Tom Tom - a bit of a panic but it turns out to be in the car. I head off 11ish: its only 10-15 mins to the zoo and its lovely and sunny. I take the 35 min narrated tour bus which goes round most of the zoo giving me some orientation. Its a huge and somewhat confusing place so the tour is useful, showing me some places to come back to. I go to the sandwich shop in the zoo (there are loads of food, drink, photo and caricature stalls dotted about the site). The chicken sandwich isn't that good - too rich and they grilled it. Can't anything be unslaked by heat! Plus a coffee. Anyway, it perks me up which was the point.

I go to the Skyfari which is basically a ski gondola type thing. The view isn't actually that brilliant but its part of the ticket and luckily I'm not too bad with the height.

The Skyfari, that I'm about to go on.

This takes me to the top of the site - with the aim to walk down. I see the some elegant gazelle type things, then polar bears which have a big tank you can see them swimming in - if they happen to want to swim. They were busy eating carrots. I get a huge frozen lemonade (which is mainly sugar - I shoud have known) and queue for the giant pandas which are OK. Then up the travellator (sic) to the aviaries. Again, OK. Next the hippos which are great and various bears and things. Actually, re the hippo, they had a huge tank which you could see below the line - like the polar bears. Everyone was staring - all I could see was darkness. Suddenly I realised that the darkness was actually a big hippo up against the glass. Weird eye reorientation!

Southern Geranuks

Mmm, carrot

Tired

Most of a big snake

Hippo-tastic

This is meant to be one of the best zoos in the world and I guess I was expecting cutting edge animal enclosures but actually many of them are not that great. The herbivores don't seem too bothered but the carnivores seem pretty bored.

I wanted to properly see the giraffes which we passed on the bus. They are brilliant and cheer me up. Nearby,, there is a cheetah in an enclosure with a dog - they pair them up as buddies - these animals are tame and get taken to schools etc. Called Ambassador Animals. Weird but heartwarming to see. Then loop back to the kiwi trail where there is a kiwi running about in a darkened enclosure (they're nocturnal). Funny round fluffy things. LIke tribbles with legs and a beak. You can't see much but its good to see one. We failed to in New Zealand.

Chums

I want a giraffe

baby giraffe

The fern trail

Then, still buoyed up, go up the fern trail - a lovely tropical area on the hill, which is nice and quite quiet (the zoo is sandwiched between highway and the airport though its the kids not the animals that make most of the noise.

I'm pretty exhausted as I leave, about 4:40.

Camero found a friend

Back to my room for coffee and ibuprofen and have a well needed lie down. I decide to go to the Afghan place I found on Trip Advisor yesterday. Its not too far and in the Gaslamp area. I leave before 7. On the way, I pass a garage that has a De Lorean for sale for $37000. They are beautiful buy don't look very well made. The sign says that flux capacitors are available separately :)

Expensive!

Badly fitting doors. Pride of Birmingham.

Chopahn Authentic Afghan Cuisine is a single large, high roofed room with fake arches, presumably recalling Afghan decor. The waitress is a bit odd and its quite dark in there and I struggle to read the menu (I so need to take my contacts out when I go out in the evening). I have to wait a bit to get a drink but my meal: Sabsi Challaw (pork cooked in spinach and garlic with rice) is fabulous. One of the best meals of the holiday. 1 or 2 stars for the restaurant, 4 for the meal.

I walk back via the Gaslamp district for which san Diego is 'famous'. Its nothing special - just lots of restaurants and bars. No gas lamos at all. I see a Rock Bottom Brewery - a fave of mine from Minneapolis and go in for a drink. I have their IPA which is very nice. I consider having a pizza there tomorrow's there but actually its dark and noisy so probably better just for beer.

Overall the zoo was great but they are always slightly sad places and some of it didn't live up to the super standards I was expecting. Great giraffes though :)

Zoo trip

Day trip

Holiday 2011: Day 19 LA to San Diego and Mission San Juan Capistrano

2011-07-24T03:56:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the new home for my blog. Don't forget, the previous stuff is still at www.andyrawlins.wordpress.com

I didn't sleep that well - the fridge is really quite noisy. Pack up and leave about 11. I have only had juice and need coffee. My itinerary includes Long Beach for the Queen Mary (the former ocean liner and now museum/hotel) and one or two Spanish Missions.

Its wall to wall cloud. I get to Long Beach but I didn't have the exact location of the ship (its 'in the Harbour') and can't find it. I spot a Subway and go round the block to get to it and some breakfast. I'm tired and hungover and as I turn right I take the nearside (ie wrong way) of the 4 lanes. There is no traffic but I see vehicles in the distance pointing my way and race across the tram line to the right side. I'm quite shook up and very cross with myself. I park up and get my sandwich but Subway stop doing coffee at 11 (I'd wondered why some places didn't have it). They point me to a 7Eleven where I get a coffee.

Then off on the Interstate towards San Juan Capistrano. I have programmed the Tom Tom for the middle of town where it should be. I see some signs but can't find it. Why can't the Americans signpost anything! I park up and eat my sandwich (sweet teriaki chicken - v nice) then wander across the level crossing finding a map of the town

Train!

The mission is just round the corner. I get a tea in Starbucks opposite. I'm feeling really rough today. Check some emails. Then to the Mission.

Its $9 incl free audio tour or $3 more for a guided tour. I feel I should do the latter but don't feel like I'm up to it. As I wander round the beautiful grounds - much busier and more touristy than the one I did a few days ago - I cheer up, taking lots of photos. Towards the end the sun even comes out. These Missions are one of the unexpected delights of the holiday.

Mission San Juan Capistrano

This turned out to be a really great stop so I'm glad I persisted (I nearly gave up trying to find it).

There are lots more photos of the Mission and the rest of the day on this Picassa album. The website of the Mission is here.

Brilliant as this is, time dictates that I don't go to the other one on my list which is a 40ml round trip detour. However, when I get to Oceanside I should be able to get off the I5 to a coastal road (the fast roads aren't much good with the roof down - too noisy). I find the beginning of the coast road but get lost so give up and back to the I5. Its only about an hour and a half from the Mission to San Diego. At one spot, I stop for some views of the ocean, which is nice. Just on from that I pass what looks like the film set from M*A*S*H. All buff coloured tents and old style jeeps and stuff. Its actually a real army camp. Totally weird.

The Tom Tom takes me straight to the hotel by 5:30. There is valet parking ($26 per day) and I have a huge room (604). It hasn't got a great view but apart from that is brilliant - just what I wanted for my last stop. Quite reasonable as well - $119 NI the parking. Looking at the website I should have booked direct: For $170 I could have also got breakfast, free parking and $25 day petrol!

My wonderful room in the Bristol Hotel San Diego

After a bit of research and I choose Buon Appetito for food, a bit north of my location. Its a fair walk. Its a nice, small, Italian place (this is San Diego's Little Italy) and I have a fillet mignon which is great. Really tasty and beautifully cooked with fresh vegetables.

After that I wander up and find a 7Eleven where I get wine, coke and juice. Then walk back. There are loads of homeless people sleeping though no one bothers me. Near the hotel are loads of 'Bail Bond' places (ie get out of gaol after minor crime) which, understandably, seem to be open 24/7. Never seen these before!

Back by about 9:30. Do my downloading - it turns out my geologger got turned off in the restaurant. I've been obsessive about checking it as I drive along - with good reason it seems. The TV channels aren't as good here. My wine (Chardonnay $11.99) is very nice once I manage to cool it down in an ice bucket. This is the best hotel room of the trip by far but has the worst TV selection. For almost the first time I can't find stuff to watch (ie Family Guy/American Dad/Two and a Half Men/Roseanne).

A dodgy start to the day, but had an excellent time in the Mission and a brilliant final hotel room. Also feeling calm about going home soon.